Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
